Although most of the major estuaries in western Washington have been drained, filled, reconstructed and otherwise molested in the name of human progress, the Nisqually Reach remains virtually untouched—making it a hotbed for sea kayaking.
The 3,780 acres of the Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge provide ideal habitat for up to 300 species of birds, mammals, amphibians, fish and reptiles, and is the perfect location for those who enjoy viewing nature where it lives from the seat of a paddlecraft.
Early development modified the region somewhat, but recent remediation efforts have taken this tidal wonderland back toward the way it was, mostly free of modern “improvements.” There are many great paddling opportunities within the delta, with a variety of routes. Two of the best options are a paddle up McAllister Creek and a cross-delta traverse.
Nisqually Reach: McAllister Creek
For paddling McAllister Creek, an incoming tide is optimum. From the put-in, head right, up the creek towards the interstate a mile or so away. The hillside to the south is heavily wooded, its steep rise blocking off all sign of human activity in that direction. It is possible, on large tides, to take this creek on under the interstate, and into the pastures of the Nisqually Valley. Time your turn-around with the tide and travel back to the launch site with a minimum of effort, and a maximum of paddling pleasure.
Nisqually Reach: The Cross-Delta Traverse
For this bigger paddle, put in at Luhr Beach and to paddle the breadth of the delta and back, which provides perspective on the diversity of this rich bioregion. A major consideration is the extensive mud flat that stretches from the Nisqually Reach halfway to Anderson Island when the tide is out. Be aware of tidal swings; if you get stuck, it’s a long mucky walk to deeper water. Also, because it’s so shallow, wind can whip up the water and things may quickly get outside your comfort zone. Stay to the deeper channels and if you’ve timed it correctly, the current will help carry you across. There is an excellent lunch stop at a sandy jetty near the easternmost refuge boundary and the intricate shoreline makes for some interesting exploration while waiting for the tide to change.
On an incoming tide, paddle up Red Salmon Creek, under the bluffs at the refuge’s northern edge. (In the spring and early summer, this is a good spot to observe bald eagles feeding, soaring and perching in the tall trees near the banks.) After a bit of “pasture paddling,” poking into the different waterways that come off of the creek, proceed southward to a wide passageway that connects to the river. From here, you can ride the river’s current to the mouth, where seals cruise for their salmon dinner, or haul out, fat and happy on the shore. Do not disturb these marine mammals in your passing, being careful to keep at least fifty yards between beached pinnipeds and you, as required by law.
As you turn back towards your put-in point, the tide (if you’ve planned accordingly), should be high enough to allow you access to the passageways into the marshlands. Many of these canals are dead ends, although some connect with each other, making a one-of-a-kind wetlands paddling experience possible; part of the fun of exploring this area is not knowing which is which.
When to go:
Paddling at Nisqually Reach is possible (and enjoyable), at just about any time. However, you might want to time your visit to include a 10- to 12-foot tide. When the water is at these levels, most of the marshland passages are accessible and provide a good opportunity to explore the wildlife-rich environment. Lower tides can make it difficult to get into many of these saltwater canals, while tides in excess of 13 feet tend to completely cover them. You may also want to avoid hunting season (October-January), although problems involving kayakers and shootists are rare (call the refuge at (360) 753-9467 for information).
Access:
The most practical launch site for the Nisqually Reach is Luhr Beach, just south of the refuge boundary. To get there, take exit 114 off of Interstate 5 and go south, up the Martin Way hill to Meridian Road. Turn right, staying on Meridian as you go through the roundabout, and continue until you reach the 3-way stop at the intersection with 46th Avenue. Turn right here, and take the first left onto D’Milluhr Road, which deadends at the launch. (Follow the signs to “Public Fishing.”) There is adequate parking at the put-in, on all but the busiest hook and bullet weekends, as well as toilet facilities near the top of the parking area. A Washington State Discover Pass is required to park.
— By Ken Campbell
