First of all, the name is a misnomer. There are actually more than 1,800 islands in the Thousand Islands, a 50-mile archipelago on the St. Lawrence River between Cape Vincent and Morristown, New York, and Kingston and Brockville on the Ontario side of the border. But regardless of the math or the fact that two countries straddle this stretch of river, the region is a paddler’s paradise. That phrase is probably used too often, yet after a dozen or so SUP trips to the Thousand Islands over the past few years, I can vouch that it’s accurate here.
Although your experience will vary if you’re piloting a canoe, kayak or paddleboard, navigating amongst clusters of forested granite islands, exploring secluded coves and stringing together open-water crossings conjures a maritime feeling a long drive away from any ocean. By July, the river is warm enough for leisurely swims and incredibly clear thanks to the zebra mussel, which lets you spot the turtles and fish beneath your boat or board. Look up to see eagles, osprey and great blue herons (which also have a keen interest in those fish) and keep an eye on the rugged shorelines for mink and weasels scampering along the rocks.
Another highlight of a day on the water in the Thousand Islands are all the “cottages” to behold, from cute shacks perched on tiny outcrops to grand century-old estates (not to mention a couple of Gilded Age castles). The region has been drawing tourists since the late 1800s, when wealthy industrialists from cities like Pittsburgh and New York began building summer homes, and it has seen its share of smuggling over the years, especially during Prohibition. The luxury hotels of the steamboat era may be gone, but that makes it even more of a playground for anybody with a paddle.
Thousand Islands National Park
Your best bet for paddle touring is this Canadian national park, a string of 21 islands and a few smaller islets. Several of the islands have tent sites and glamping units, many of which are reservable in advance, with some set aside for first-come, first-served camping. Facilities are limited to picnic tables, short walking trails, self-serve firewood kiosks and outhouses tucked into the trees (composting toilets that are perhaps the most charming and scent-free privies I’ve ever used). Some of the islands also have shelters and Parks Canada’s signature red Adirondack chairs atop rocky lookouts. You have to bring your own drinking water and will be sharing the space with boaters, who can overnight at island docks or moor in leeward bays. For the same reason they attract paddlers, the Thousand Islands are popular with the sailboat, houseboat, pontoon boat and small yacht cruising set.
Combined with wind and waves, this traffic can be challenging, kicking up wakes that less experienced paddlers might find intimidating. But choppy waters and swell can be fun to play in, and you can pick lines between and among all those islands to minimize the impact of boats and weather. If you cede the right of way to larger vessels and remain mindful of the rules of the river — look both ways before crossing a channel and zip through perpendicularly — the risks are minimal. The rewards, from morning cliff jumps into the water and walks amid towering hardwoods to dreamy paddling under the sun and stargazing at night, are more than worth it.
Access Points and Amenities
Full-disclosure: I’ve only ever paddled on the Canadian side of the Thousand Island, so my knowledge of put-in sites is limited. The town of Gananoque, Ontario, which bills itself as the “Gateway to the Thousand Islands,” has everything you need to set out or restock: namely, a supermarket and liquor store and a public marina you can launch from, plus pub patios and ice cream parlours for après camping. The only tricky thing about Ganny is that parking at the marina is restricted to boatslip holders in July and August, so you’ll have to drop off gear and look for free street parking a few blocks away or pay to leave your vehicle in a lot. But it’s worth the extra steps if you want to hit the Admiralty Islands, a cluster with several camping options that begins just south of town. For quick access to islands further east, Peck’s Marina near the hamlet of Ivy Lea is a great put-in choice, as is the Thousand Islands National Park Visitor Centre near Mallorytown Landing. On the American side, sprawling Wellesley Island State Park has boat-in campsites on the banks of the St. Lawrence, and a little to the west, at the tip of New York’s enormous Grindstone Island, Canoe Point State Park offers waterside tenting and a few cabins and is only reachable by boat.
Border Crossings
As long as you don’t touch land, paddlers are allowed to criss-cross back and forth across the international boundary that runs more or less down the middle of the river. But if you plan on departing New York and camping in Ontario, you’ll have to phone the Canada Border Services Agency to self-report (thankfully, cell service is good throughout the Thousand Islands). The United States makes it a little easier to paddle from one country another: you can download and set up an account on the CPB ROAM app before your trip and use it to notify the authorities of your arrival. That queues up a video call with a Customs and Border Protection officer, and as long as you’re an eligible pleasure boater, getting approved for entry shouldn’t be a problem. Pack your passport in a drybag, however, just in case.
Logistics and Hazards
The prevailing winds in the Thousand Islands blow from the west, so check the forecast and be mindful of exposed areas with lots of fetch where waves and chop can build. Summertime brings the occasional thunderstorm; be prepared to seek shelter, but because most of the islands are private, you won’t be able to land in many places. Current is really only an issue east of the international highway bridge, where the St. Lawrence narrows and the water is funneled through a relatively tight passage.
The riverbed drops here, creating boils and swirls, and expect to work harder when paddling upstream, although sticking tight to the shore will help you eddy up against the flow. Boat traffic is heaviest near marinas and harbors, including hulking tour boats; keep an eye on the red and green buoys that mark the main motor craft channels. There are also countless submerged shoals, but these tend to keep other boats away and make for pleasant paddling. Racoons can be a pain overnight when camping; find a heavy rock for the top of your cooler or ratchet strap it tight and keep your drybags sealed. And the huge swans you’ll encounter on the water can be aggressive, especially near their nests, so give them a wide berth.
–Author Dan Rubinstein is also the author of Water Borne: A 1,200-Mile Paddleboarding Pilgrimage, published in 2025 by ECW Press.
