Rugged cliffs, deep gorges and crystal-clear water—that’s what y you’ll find on a bike and packrafting tour in the south of France around the Gorges du Tarn. (Story by Gerhard Czerner; Photos by Daniel Geiger.)
The Gorges du Tarn, northeast of Millau, is one of the most beautiful gorges in France. Over a length of more than 50 kilometers, the Tarn has cut up to 500 meters into the karst plains of the Causses, as the limestone plateaus are called. The water penetrates deep into the limestone layers, literally hollowing out the rock. The originally continuous plateau was cut into blocks and deep gorges were created. The natural boundaries of each Causse are formed by the deep valleys of the Lot, the Tarn, the Jonte, the Dourbie and their tributaries. The contrasts between the often arid plateaus and the water-rich valleys could not be greater. Our idea of experiencing these two completely different landscapes in one trip led us to gravel bikes and pack rafts. Combined, in a so-called bikerafting, the contrasts can be experienced up close.
On a gravel bike in the Jonte Valley
At an altitude of 400 meters, at the confluence of the Tarn and Jonte rivers, the stone houses of Le Rozier nestle against the steep slopes of the Causses Méjean. To avoid the tourist traffic, Isabella and I set off early in the morning on our loaded gravel bikes along the main road between Le Rozier and Peyreleau into the Jonte Gorge. We pedal uphill between vertical rock faces, accompanied by the loud chirping of crickets. High above us we see small black dots in the air: vultures. These rare birds of prey have been successfully reintroduced in the region. On the way to Le Truel, where we leave the main road, there is a museum dedicated to these animals. On the roof terrace of “La Maison des Vautours” you can watch the birds of prey with binoculars. Cameras show the nesting sites live and a film shows the vultures feeding and hunting. Allow an hour for this rewarding stop.
Solitude on the plateau of Causses Méjean.
In the small hamlet of Saint-Pierre-des-Tripiers, we stopped for lunch under a few trees in the courtyard of a large Romanesque stone church. I look at the GPS. “We are at over 900 meters. We’ve done most of the climbing for today,” I share my enthusiasm while chewing. “That’s good too. It’s really hot today,” says Isabella, taking another sip of water. With one person per square kilometer, the Causse Méjean is sparsely populated. Here, on the highest plateau in the region, living conditions are difficult: a mountain climate with harsh winters and porous soils that exacerbate summer droughts. Accordingly, one is often alone here. The plateau, up to 1250 meters high, is crisscrossed with small roads and paths. There are countless ways to combine them.
Before we start pedaling again, we check our luggage to make sure it’s secure. The boat and paddles are strapped to the rack. The camping and whitewater gear is stowed in various panniers. I’m always amazed that everything we need for two sports fits on the bike. A quick glance, a nod – the straps are tight. We set off for Le Veygalier, our destination for the day. The landscape is dominated by cornfields. Poppies decorate the golden yellow ears of corn that sway in the sun with red spots. The view stretches far across the rolling hills. Our route takes us past a “Thousand and One Nights Dream”. That’s what a French speleologist called the huge Aven Armand cave. Its vast underground chamber contains a forest of more than 400 stalagmites. This remarkable sight includes the outstanding large stalagmite, which at 30 meters is the tallest known stalagmite in the world today! A visit to the underground halls, which have been colorfully illuminated since 2014, is impressive.
The rocky chaos in the evening light.
We continue pedaling east. “The stone houses fit perfectly into the landscape,” Isabella exclaims as we pass a farm where sheep graze. The highlands were deforested early on. As a result, there is no wood as a building material. Stone is the dominant raw material. The result is the typical limestone architecture. Even the roofs are covered with stone slabs weighing up to 250 kilograms per square meter, and sometimes even more. A roof weighing several tons is quite common. As the sun slowly moves behind us toward the horizon, wildly torn rock formations stretch into the sky in front of us. We stop for a moment. I pull out my smartphone to take a picture. “The rocks look like dinosaurs. And the long shadows are totally bizarre”. In the evening light, the rocky tangle of “Chaos de Nîmes-le-Vieux” looks like something from another world.
The hamlet of Le Veygalier is right next to the rocky chaos. Sheep have been bred here for five generations. We sit down in the garden of the small inn. Homemade products such as sheep’s cheese and chestnut pâté are on the menu, along with various meat products from their slaughter. Homemade lemonade or local wines complete the taste experience. There is another special treat for us: those who dine here are allowed to camp on the property free of charge. We gladly accept the offer and set up camp next to bleating sheep.
Leaving for the banks of the Tarn
“Good morning. I’m really looking forward to the descent into the canyon. Motivated, I close my backpack and look at Isabella. She is also busy with the last details. “Me too. And I’m curious to see how the boat works.” Isabella has never been on a boat and a bike before. I know the setup from other trips, but I’m still a little nervous because I don’t know the Tarn either. Every river is different.
We go back a short distance on the road we came from yesterday. Then we turn north to the edge of the Causses Méjean. Birds chirp in the cool morning air. A sign at a crossroads points to Montbrun. The medieval village is 500 yards down the left bank. “Look at that!” Isabella stops. At the edge of the canyon, the view opens into the depths. “The limestone walls are really impressive. What a view! The narrow pass road winds deeper and deeper into the canyon. Far below us we can see the crystal clear waters of the Tarn River. We wind through the narrow streets of Montbrun and follow the road downstream. At the Les Osiers campsite we will make ourselves comfortable and prepare for the rest of the day’s paddling. And of course we go swimming. After the dry kilometers on the plateau, the water seems to attract us like a magnet.
With the packrafts on the Tarn
We loaded the bikes onto the packrafts, strapped them down and checked the load. Nothing should slip or the boats could be damaged. The coffee maker is packed and the waterproof bags are stowed in the boat. We’re ready to go. There is no specific plan for the day. We want to paddle as long as we feel like it. There are campgrounds at regular intervals along the Tarn, so we can plan the stages flexibly. We hope to make the 40 kilometers to Le Rozier in two days. The difficulty on the six-point whitewater scale is up to level 1 at today’s water levels. At higher water levels it can be as high as level 2.
The boats glide quietly through the water. The moderate current helps us along. Now in the morning we are almost alone on the river. There are only a few swimmers enjoying the early morning hours. After a few kilometers we come to a low concrete bridge. Here we have to keep our heads down. Otherwise we’ll get stuck. Then we reach the rocky basin of Castelbouc, which translates as “Castle of the Goat”, with its picturesque castle ruins perched on an exposed rock. It’s fantastic how the buildings are perched on the rocks, surrounded by dense forest.
As we paddle towards the great arched bridge of Sainte-Enimie, the change between calm waters and gentle rapids makes for a varied and scenic trip. The village is a winner of the cultural tourism award “Plus Beaux Villages de France”. We moor on the gravel jetty just below the bridge. A short walk through the picturesque cobblestone streets of the promenade, which we will end with a café au lait, allows us to admire a monastery built into the rock. It was founded by the Merovingian princess Enimie. She came here to cure herself of a terrible illness. Today it is empty and can be visited during the summer months. In the late afternoon, an idyllic campsite invites us to spend the night, with a view of the river, of course. “A wonderful first day, I can’t wait for tomorrow.” Isabella pulls the zipper of her jacket tighter. We sit around the crackling campfire, the creek splashing gently in the background. The perfect end to a great day..
The non navigable part of the river
A steep, slightly overhanging rock face announces the village of Saint-Chély after the first few kilometers the next day. A large arched bridge spans the river. The houses on the left bank are built directly on the steep rock walls. From their windows you could jump into the water. Between them, a waterfall plunges over mossy green cascades. The scenery looks like something out of a fairy tale. The following section is the most unusual part of the middle Tarn. Many vertical cliffs rise out of the water. We drift through a magnificent canyon landscape. In some places the cliffs are vertical, sometimes even overhanging. Les Détroits and the Cirque des Baumes are among the highlights of the Gorges du Tarn.
The “Pas de Soucy”, an impassable point on the Tarn due to a rockfall, is marked by a sign on the right bank. A portage is unavoidable. Before re-entering the most interesting section of the tour in terms of whitewater, the boats have to be carried a short distance downstream along the road. Unlike the sections behind us, there are always boulders in the water. The difficulties are not insurmountable as we have become accustomed to our boats and their handling over the many miles already covered. We enjoy the lush green of the moss covered rocks, the crystal clear water and the little challenges on the water. The striking arch of an old stone bridge, now spanning only half of the river, marks the end of our tour. We disembark just 100 meters away on a gravel bank. We stretch our legs and clap enthusiastically. “Now it’s time for a café au lait at Le Rozier.” I look into Isabella’s bright eyes. “We were here a few days ago,” she grins.
Info: Gorges du Tarn
Located in the South of France, Occitanie region, Departments of Lozère and Aveyron, the Gorges du Tarn is ideal for beginners and experienced kayakers who want to enjoy a breathtaking natural setting. The length of the entire gorge on the River Tarn is about 53 km (from Le Rozier to Ispagnac), and rated easy to moderate (Class I-III), depending on the water level.
– Best season: Spring to autumn (April to October), especially in spring when the water level is higher
-Points of interest:
– Les Détroits” (the narrowest passages of the gorges)
– Medieval villages (e.g. Sainte-Enimie, La Malène)
– Vulture museum: https://www.maisondesvautours.fr/
– Infrastructure: Numerous kayak rentals and shuttle services, campsites and accommodation along the canyon. Information about accommodation: https://www.france-voyage.com/frankreich-tourismus/schluchten-tarn-1896.htm
– Water levels: Be sure to check current water levels, as low water can limit kayaking enjoyment. Water levels on the Internet: https://pegelalarm.at/de/river.php?river=Tarn
– Overnight accommodation on the Causses Méjean: https://www.fermeduveygalier.fr/
– Packrafts: https://www.anfibio.com/packrafting-gear/packrafts/
