New York has its Central Park, San Antonio has its Riverwalk, but there are very few other places like Seattle, Washington’s Lake Union: a bustling and beautiful, user-friendly body of water at the center of a busy, energetic city. It is only fitting, in a place so dominated by water, that Seattle’s core should be such a paddler’s gem. Route choices are numerous and even with the large construction projects that line portions of the lake, there are multiple road-ends and waterfront parks that can be used to get to the water. There is no such thing as an average tour around Lake Union, but there are a few key spots you won’t want to miss as you make your way along the shoreline.
Staying close to the fringes of the lake is the best way to guard against unwanted encounters with other craft. Besides, the edges are where the fun is. Whether you choose to turn towards the east side and the Montlake Cut, or go west through the Ballard Locks, keeping out of the main traffic areas is always the best course of action. This is a relatively small lake and there is rarely the need to cross at its widest part.
Much of the east side of the lake is given over to the substantial “Sleepless in Seattle” houseboat community, branching out from the shore in man-made fingers and inlets. There seems to be something to see here no matter when you visit, with dogs barking greetings and residents out on their decks, tending their potted gardens in the sun. Further along the eastern shore, the houseboats give way to marinas and commercial ship facilities, then make a reappearance once you get below the freeway bridges and into the waters of Portage Bay.
From Portage Bay, you can continue east through the Montlake Cut, which goes right along the shore of the University of Washington. The Arboretum, located just past the point where the waterway joins with Lake Washington, is an exceptionally beautiful and protected place to paddle. Expect company though, as the U-Dub has a canoe rental facility close by, and the area is a favorite with many local paddlers as well.
The south side of Lake Union is a mix of industrial and high-tech office campuses, but there is still plenty to see here. The Naval Reserve Center and the Center for Wooden Boats share the waterfront with a seaplane base, giving the area a flavor that is distinctively Northwest. Along the west side of the lake, office buildings and smaller marinas dominate and the quirky, rusted whimsy of Gasworks Park comprises the bulk of the north shore.
Further to the west is the canal that runs through Ballard and Fremont and connects Lake Union with Puget Sound by way of the Hiram Chittenden Locks. The narrow ship channel is lined with busy boatyards and working docks where huge trawlers and seiners are continually being repaired and refitted for sea, as well as a few more small houseboat communities tucked away among the many waterfront distractions.
Passing through the locks is a unique experience and is well worth the paddle. Once out the other side, your options for paddling are literally limitless. West Point is a short mile to the south, with its sand-and-gravel beach and giant drift logs along the highwater mark providing an ideal spot for a break. Beyond that is Elliot Bay and the rest of the south Sound, Bainbridge Island is a three-mile open water crossing to the west, and to the north lies Whidbey Island, the San Juans and the wilds of Alaska.
OK… that last sentence may have been a little over-the-top. But it’s all connected, it’s all one planet, and to think that it’s possible to get anywhere in the world from the waters of a downtown lake makes it all seem that much more immediate.
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Access: The launch options abound, many more than just the ones listed below. Multiple roads end at the shore of the lake and many of these offer great access. For example:
Sunnyside Boat Ramp: About a half-mile past Gasworks Park, on the same side of the road, is the small Sunnyside Boat Launch. Located where Sunnyside Avenue North meets NE Northlake Way; access is good, but parking is limited.
Lynn Street Mini Park: On the corner of E Lynn Street and Fairview Avenue, on the eastern shore in a neighborhood of houseboats, this little park is a great place to begin or end a tour. Not far off the Interstate and surrounded by noise and movement, this quiet road-end oasis (along with others farther up on the same shore), has a slower vibe and an ease of access that any paddler will appreciate. Parking is still pretty tight.
(Story and photos by Ken Campbell)